This 16 week course is specifically designed to teach the skills to get and keep a job as a professional Bench Jeweler. Providing a solid foundation to build a career on.
This is the class that all other skills are built on.
Introduction to Jewelry Manufacturing is divided into three overlapping sections:
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Section 1; Fabrication
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Section 2; Casting, Setting, Gold
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Section 3; Wax carving
Fabrication and Precious Metal Metallurgy
The class starts out in fabrication with students making all their own stock, designing and fabricating projects. The file the torch and the jewelers saw frame are probably the most important tools to master. It takes time and practice to master them. All types of fine jewelry is touched by at least one (usually all three) of those tools. Fabrication uses the traditional three tools the most. How to read a phase diagram, as well as other science related understanding of platinum, gold, silver, their alloys and solders are covered in this section.
Stone Setting and Repair
The class shifts gears with several flasks of wax for lost wax casting. The castings are then cast into bronze, cleaned up and repairs and stone setting is learned with the pieces cast by the student. Other programs provide already cast and "perfect" castings for stone setting. Valuable learning is obtained from performing the complete process.
Students start setting round man-made ruby and cubic zirconia followed by natural amethyst, citrine, peridot, and topaz. The natural stones can be more difficult and prepare for "real world" problem solving. Many shapes and setting types are learned to better prepare the student for the many different conditions they will encounter at the bench.
Gold
Copper, Silver, and Gold all follow the same rules of manufacture and most learning can be done with the cheaper silver or copper. The metals are different elements, have different physical properties and react to the manufacturing rules differently. Student projects are all silver or copper alloys up to this project.
The Gold projects starts with 24k pure gold, Students alloy the pure gold into 14k yellow, hard, medium, and easy solder as well as 14k yellow stock. Students use the stock and solder to fabricate a pendent purchased from a professional industry stone dealer. All stones are provided to the student except this one, for a very good reason.
Navigating the Trade as a Professional.
Getting into the Jewelry Trade can be difficult. It is a lot like the rules of getting a job in the old Mob movies. If you want a job in the Mob you have to know someone in the Mob who will stand for you. As a student Portland Jewelry Academy "stands for you". The first purchase within the industry is important for establishing credibility. Portland Jewelry Academy has several stone dealers who have been vetted by the school and are helpful with guiding the student as they learn how to navigate within the industry.
Wax Carving and Final Project
Wax carving is the last section of Introduction to Jewelry Manufacturing. Students carve a variety of wax project including the final project rounding out the new jewelers skills for employment.
Learning Objectives:
The objective of Introduction to Jewelry Manufacturing is to develop the skills necessary to get and keep an entry level job as a professional bench Jeweler. The skills to continue developing as a professional jeweler are critical to develop into a master bench jeweler.
True, formal apprenticeships are no longer part of the jewelry industry in the United States and require the student and school to prepare new jewelers to “self apprentice”. The curriculum of Introduction to Jewelry Manufacturing prepares graduates for continued self learning.
Introduction to Jewelry Manufacturing Projects
Project |
Description, competencies |
Core Abilities |
Rendering |
Drawing technique to test ideas and communicate designs |
Communication, Teamwork, Problem solving, Planning and Organizing, Learning |
Pierced earrings |
Transfer technique, mirror images, sawing, soldering, annealing, making wire, making posts, earring clutch design and function. |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Chain |
Making jump rings and soldering heat control |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Sister hook clasp |
Making tubing, rivets, clasp design and function, movable parts |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Hinged pendent |
Planning large project, advanced tube making, anatomy and fabrication of hinges, advanced soldering |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Comfort fit band |
Anatomy of a ring, how to plan and fabricate a ring |
Problem solving, Planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Faceted ring |
Precision lay out and filing |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Pearl cup earrings |
Fabricating pearl cups, anatomy of pearl setting |
Initiative, learning, technology |
Lost wax casting |
Injecting wax into rubber molds, understanding of production casting procedures. |
Communication, teamwork, problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Tiffany head and set |
Assembling basic head and shank, setting round stone in prongs |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Sizing a ring |
Sizing rings up and down to any size |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Tipping |
Adding metal to to already set stone that is worn. Understand what stones can take heat of soldering and what can not. |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Flush setting |
Setting a round stone flush to metal surface |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Princes setting |
Setting a stone with corners |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Oval setting |
Setting an oval stone in prongs |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Bezel setting |
Setting round and oval stones in a heavy bezel. Tool making of round and rectangle punch |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Channel setting |
Setting several stones in a row in a channel |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Gold pendent |
Alloying gold to karat. Basket setting fabrication, learning about suppliers and ethics of doing business in the jewelry industry |
Communication, teamwork, problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Comfort fit band (wax) |
Introduce wax carving for lost wax casting |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Tapered dome band |
Carving a band with different top and bottom |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Rope top band |
Adding detail, carving rails |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Square top band |
Precision carving sharp edges in wax |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Bezel top ring |
Carving a simple stone setting for a cabochon stone |
Problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning |
Final project |
Carving a wax of your own design with a faceted stone that is in a setting other than flush. Carving settings for faceted stones. |
Communication, teamwork, problem solving, initiative, planning and organizing, self management, learning, technology |
Training for the jewelry trade
This course is for people who are seeking training in the jewelry trade. It provides training in a wide range of jewelry skills. The discipline of the craft and the science of the materials are emphasized to allow adaptation to changes in the industry and market and maintain a high level of quality.
The student will design and manufacture individual pieces of jewelry using a wide range of materials, techniques and procedures relevant to work in the industry.
Practical skills and operating techniques are emphasized as well as diagnostic procedures and the technical analysis and correction of faults typically found in the trade.
The student will be able to enter the jewelry field employed as an entry level jeweler and be able to apply the work experience to adapt and grow skill.
Students will learn:
Tool safety and use, making raw stock, fabricating with stock, lost wax casting, stone setting, repair, wax carving for custom, CAD for custom, alloying gold, predictable behavior of alloys, purity standards, filling out job envelope and identifying needs for job.
Goals/Core Abilities |
Standards |
Competencies |
Communication |
Read, interpret, and follow information on: job packets, charts, lists, drawings and other reference document. |
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Teamwork |
Work as part of a team |
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Problem solving |
Interpret design and fabrication requirements and translate into practical outcomes |
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Initiative |
Apply learned knowledge to new tasks |
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Planning and Organizing |
Organize and analyze information relevant to work. |
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Self Management |
Take responsibility for own work outcomes. |
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Learning |
Use resources available to find and apply information. |
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Technology |
Select and use appropriate tools, equipment, materials, and machines. |
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