Introduction to Jewelry Manufacturing

Fabrication

Fabrication and Precious Metallurgy

the course begins with fabrication where students are making all their own stock by designing and fabricating projects. In this portion we introduce the importance of the file, torch, and saw frame. These tools take time and practice to master but are crucial to a bench jeweler. This is because each fine jewelry project usually encounters each of them. In this section, students also learn how to read phase diagrams and gain scientific understandings of platinum, gold, silver, their alloys, and solders.

Casting, Setting, Gold

Stone Setting and Repair

With this section we move focus to lost wax casting. Several flasks are set up, cast into bronze, and cleaned. Students then use their cast pieces to learn how to set stones and repair jewelry. This sets our institution apart from others because we ask students to complete the whole casting process for a more thorough understanding of what goes into their pieces. Initial stone setting is done using cubic zirconia and is followed by natural amethyst, citrine, peridot, and topaz. We do this to prepare students for the difficulties that often come with using natural stones and to help build problem solving skills to be used on the job. We also go through various shapes and setting styles to further prepare students for the range of conditions they will face at the bench.

Gold

Copper, silver, and gold all follow the same rules of manufacture and most learning can be done with silver or copper alloys, as all projects up to this point in the course are done. Our gold projects start with 24k pure gold which students alloy into 14k yellow hard, medium, and easy solder. Here they also produce 14k yellow stock. Students will then use their stock and solder to fabricate a pendant with a stone purchased from an industry professional stone dealer. All other stones beside the one for this project are provided to the students as a part of their materials package. Students are required to purchase this stone on their own since their first purchase within the industry is important for establishing credibility.

Navigating the Trade as a Professional

Starting out in the jewelry trade can be incredibly difficult, the rules of getting a job are not quite the same as other industries. The connections you make within the industry are incredibly important; references are everything. When students graduate from Portland Jewelry Academy, their certificate of completion becomes their first reference toward getting a job as a bench jeweler. Another piece of to the support we offer our students as they start out in the industry is guiding them through their first stone purchase. We work with several stone dealers which have been vetted by the school and have been consistently helpful in guiding students as they learn to navigate the industry.

Skills and Learning Outcomes

During Introduction to Jewelry Manufacturing students will learn to use tools safely, make raw stock, fabricate stock, lost wax casting, stone setting, repair, custom wax carving, custom CAD, alloying gold, predictable behavior of alloys, purity standards, filling out job envelopes, and identifying job needs.

Communication

Students will learn to read, interpret, and follow information on job packets, charts, lists, drawings, and other job-related reference documents.